Day 14 – 5 Apr 19. Snow, snow, snow

Today 24.6 km (15.3 mi), Total Distance 288.7 km (179.4 mi). 9 hours (0745-1645)

I woke up at 0330 and it was 0 degrees C but I was feeling warm in my sleeping bag. I drifted back up to sleep and woke again at 0645 when it had warmed up to 5 degrees C. It was still really misty and I had a slight condensation on my tent but not much and a quick wipe off was all that was needed.

For some reason I completed my morning routine much quicker than usual but took longer getting my tent down because the floor was dirty and I was trying to clean it as I was rolling it up.

I was on the trail at 0745, walking through the mist. I was feeling good and enthusiastic about the day as I knew I would be in the snow.

I climbed up to the top of the saddle and the wind was bitterly cold. I was wearing my wind jacket and had to stop to put on my gloves and put the hood up.

The trail now started a big descent, zig zagging (switch backing) down the steep hill. It was in trees and the trees were dripping as they collected the moisture from the mist. I was taking it very easy and my body was feeling good, despite the big downhill.

At the base of the hill it was another saddle and really strong winds. The mist had cleared and as I started the next climb I heated up and was able to take my jacket off.

There were a lot of downed trees in this area so there were a few trees to climb over. Just as I caught up to two hikers there was a section where the trail was difficult to find as it was zig zagging at random intervals and there were lots of branches and trees to try to negotiate around.

The two hikers pulled away but then stopped for a rest and I caught up. I stopped as well and put on some sunscreen which turned out to be funny as 10 minutes later the sun disappeared in the thick mist.

The trail climbed up to a ridge and then followed a rocky ridge for a while. As I gained height I was back into the mist. The trail was on the top for a while exposed to the wind but then dropped to the NE of the ride which was much more sheltered. There were a few little patches of snow on the side of the trail but not much.

The trail dropped slightly and then climbed up to a big wide saddle where visibility was really restricted. There were no trail markers and in one place there was no vegetation and the trail was a little hard to see. I could see that it would be easy for people to lose the trail and not find it again quite easily.

I started heading around the hill and checked Guthook and saw I was now going around Apache Peak. I had heard so much about Apache Peak about how difficult it was and the reputation was such that many people were not doing this section of the trail.

I was thinking that everything must have melted away until I turned a corner and suddenly was faced with a steep field of snow with a long drop below the trail. There were footprints visible and the snow seemed nice and firm so I put my crampons on and my satellite phone around my neck. I also took my hands out of the hiking pole wrist straps.

I started on the slope and as soon as I started I realised it was even better than it looked. The footprints were nearly horizontal though there were some areas which were still sloped. I definitely would not do this without microspikes or crampons but was perfectly comfortable with my crampons. There was a stretch of just under 100m then a small dirt patch and another section of just under 100mm before coming out onto the dirt. I was not on the track but looked down and the track was only 15 meters below so I dropped down and then once on the track took off my crampons. I was surprised that it was so easy but then I guess the benefit of experience on steep snow and wearing crampons makes a difference.

I found out that evening that the previous day someone had slipped and broke their leg requiring a major search and rescue operation to recover. Several other people had also slipped on this section and other sections with some injuries but thankfully noting as bad as the broken leg. There were a lot of people trying the slope that had zero experience and were putting on microspikes for the first time which is such a dangerous gamble with their lives.

I continued on the trail and it was back to dirt for quite a while as we followed on the side of a hill. There were some more snow patches to cross under Ansell Peak but there were deep footprints and I did not need my crampons on.

There was some more climbing then a strange switchback where I got disoriented as it seemed like I was heading back in the same direction as I had come from. The trail actually crossed over above where I came over a saddle and then continued along the side of the hill.

Just as the switchbacks ended I saw people walking ahead which was the first for ages. I had felt like I was the only one on the mountain for a long time before seeing those people. I think the lack of visibility added to the feeling of isolation.

I caught the group as they stopped and were putting on their microspikesspikes. They looked freezing cold and were in their full wet weathers, gloves and hats. I looked ahead of them and saw the snow slope. With my experience I thought it looked fine without spikes as the snow was a little softer and had defined deep footprints so I continued. I crossed with no issues then turned around to watch the group come across and some of them looked petrified and very uncomfortable. The first guy looked uncertain but was doing a good job by making sure each foot was secure before stepping forward and he was not leaning into the slope like a lot of beginners.

I continued on as some of their group were taking a really long time. There were several more snow slopes to negotiate but all of them were pretty easy.

Please note if you do not have snow experience do not take my methods as the way to do it. If you are unsure put your spikes on and make sure you are with other people. Also take your time and make sure you are fully concentrating the whole time until you are back on secure footing.

Now it was back on the dirt trail and the trail climbed into a really neat area of rocks. There was one more long climb to get to the highest point of the trail today which was just over 2,500 meters (8,200 ft). I was still feeling good and realised that I would get to Idyllwild that day. I hadn’t stopped for breakfast and only had 3 miles to go so decided to just push on.

As I came around the corner at the highest point there was a bit of snow. I crossed the snow and climbed over it and looked ahead and now it was solid snow. Suddenly my speed dropped. The snow was at a good consistency. It was soft enough that I could edge on the slope but firm enough that I was not sliding and the footprints that were there were holding.

I thought it would only a short section but soon realised it was going to be a continual snow field. There were clear footprints for the first mile and a half.

As I was dropping height the temperature also dropped as the mist got thicker. At one point I thought it was about to get dark and was surprised when I looked at my watch and realised it was only 1500.

I got to Tahquitz Junction and the snow was starting to turn icy so I put on my crampons again. I was starting to get tired but was now only a mile from the Devils Slide Trail so pushed on.

There was one area where the footprints scattered and the way ahead was not clear so I checked out Guthooks and quickly found the right trail.

The last section was mainly downhill to Saddle Junction. I stopped and had a few handfuls of lollies before starting the descent to Devils Slide Trail. It was only a few hundred meters until the trail turned to dirt. I took my crampons off and continued down the trail. It took an hour to make the descent to Humber Carpark.

I knew there would be no cars at the carpark and was prepared to do the next few miles down the road to get to town. Just as I hit the carpark a car drove up. It was a one way road and I headed down to where the circuit finished and got there just as the car arrived. I stuck out my thumb and they stopped to my absolute delight.

Now rather than a trudge down the road while feeling really tired I had a ride in a heated car with a lovely car of tourists. They dropped me off at the Italian Restaurant.
In the restaurant there was a table hikers and they invited me to join them. I ordered a pizza and it arrived really quickly. The company was great. At the table was Youngheart, Pilgrim, Craw dad, Old bigfoot and a local trail angel. We talked about the trail and each others history and the evening went quickly. The dinner finished with some trail magic when Youngheart generously shouted dinner.

Youngheart – Trail Angel and current PCT hiker

I had sent a message to Debbie who had offered to host female hikers through the Facebook PCT Trail Angel page. Debbie was great and even though I was a day early, and she already had a hiker, she told me to come around and that I could sleep on the sofa.

I walked half a mile to her place and found it easily with her detailed instructions. When I arrived she was so welcoming. She gave directions for the shower, complete with towel and soap. She also suggested I have a bath and provided epsom salts. I met the other hiker, Leslie aka Smalls, and the three of us talked for ages. They were great company.

Debbie my amazing Trail Angel

Later I had a shower and it was great watching the dirty water running down the drain as I cleaned off the dirt of the last week. I then ran the bath and soaked in the hot water with epsom salts and it was really relaxing.
Debbie and I then talked a little more before I went to bed. Smalls had decided she liked the cot so instead of sleeping on the sofa I got a double bed. I slept really well making the most of being able too spread out across the bed.

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