16 January 2015
Day 80. 5 km south of Caroline Bivy to Boyd Flat Hut.
My morning routine was a little slower as I was trying to do everything from inside my tent as I could see a cloud of Sandflys waiting ready to pounce the minute I left the safety of my tent. Once I had finished as much as I could I ventured out and put repellent on for the first time since the Wanganui River. I walked a long way off to go to the toilet as I didn’t fancy being bitten in my more sensitive places.
I was on the trail at 0740 and in a good mood. For some reason as I left I got “I’m off to see the wizard” in my head but luckily after a few repetitions of the two lines I know it went away.
Today I was not inspired. The track was very easy, largely flat and the scenery nice but after being spoilt with fantastic scenery recently I couldn’t get excited. What did stand out today was the flowers. As I was walking through grassy meadows for most of the day I noticed the profusion of flowers. There were a couple of parts in the beech trees but they were short and infrequent.
After 6 km the track joined a vehicle track and stayed on this for the next 18 km which didn’t help my excitement levels. I did pass the 2000 km mark which was exciting. I am now 2/3 of the way through but it is a little sad that I only have 1000 km to go. The last 1000 km went so quickly.
Three DOC vehicle’s passed on the track all off to do maintenance on the new St James Cycleway.
After joining the St James Walkway the track crossed on the most rickety swingbridge I have seen and then along a cliff that had wire ropes to hang onto despite being a nice wide path, relative to what I have been on recently. After 10 minutes of single track it was back onto vehicle track to Anne Hut. I could see the rain coming down the valley and was rushing to reach the hut before it arrived and I made it. There was one person there but they didn’t say anything even after I greeted them. I had lunch, filled in the Hut Book and was on my way at 1400. The sign said it was 6-8 hours to the next Hut but I was pretty sure I could do it in much less so I decided to push on for the hut. The sign also said it was 18 km but my map said 15 km which was better. 5 minutes from the Hut it started raining so my rain jacket and skirt went on for the first time in the South Island.
I started enjoying myself more now. The track was single track in great condition. It was largely in open meadows with small patches of bush. The track went up a valley and over Anne Saddle. This was the easiest saddle I have ever climbed that wasn’t on a horse. I didn’t even have time to start puffing or sweating it was so short.
Now it was more of the same but going downhill gently. After an hour from the saddle I reached Rockerby Hut which was very basic and no mattresses. I think I would rather stay in my tent than in that hut.
I carried on and the rain got heavier but it wasn’t much further until I was crossing the Swingbridge and arriving at Boyd River Hut. It took me 4 hours 20 minutes from Anne Hut. I stripped off my rain gear and was completely dry except the bottom of my shorts where the long grass had come up under my rain skirt. The hut was toasty as someone had lit the fire. Fred and Nev were there with Rachel who has done the north island in one go and is now section hiking TA south island to Arthurs Pass. There were also two ladies who kept to themselves. I made dinner then we read and talked until 2100. By this time one of the ladies was snoring but by the time I finished updating my blog she stopped so I managed to get to sleep before she started again.
17 January 2015
Day 81. Boyd Flat Hut to Hope Kiwi Lodge.
I left at 0750 at the same time as the mother and daughter. We crossed the Swingbridge and then I started down the track.
This was mainly in beech forest and large parts was fantastic track. It was easy enough to make good time but interesting enough with roots and rocks to require attention. Not long after leaving the hut I heard a Kea above me but couldn’t see it. After crossing another swingbridge the track continued the same as before though there were a couple of open bits. I saw more of the little birds and managed to take a photo but it was blurred There were several Robins and a Tomtit.
There was another swingbridge to cross and as I approached I heard a strange noise that I couldn’t place. I started crossing and then saw what had made the noise. It was a large family of Canadian Geese. One went down the rapids with two youngsters and one crossed upstream with 6 youngsters. Mystery solved and I continued. The trees changed from beech forest to mature Manuka. It is not often you see Manuka this big and old.
Not long after I arrived at the car park and made my way to the Boyle Outdoor Centre to pick up my resupply parcel. They charge $10 to hold parcels for TA hikers which is not unreasonable given we don’t spend any money with them so they don’t benefit from holding our parcels. Fred and Nev had finished sorting their resupply and Rachel was not doing one.
I did my repacking and even though it was only 3 days supply it was still a lot when combined with my leftovers. I grunted as I put my pack on my back and it now seemed really heavy.
Rachel left at 1130 and I left at 1150 before Fred and Nev.
The track was quite overgrown through long grass beside the main road then crossed over and through Matagauri (native prickly short tree). I lost the trail markers after a few hundred metres so just headed for the river. As I reached it Fred and Nev appeared. They had lost the markers from the road.
We crossed the Boyle river which was fast flowing and came just above the bottom of my shorts legs. Then it was a mixture of river stones, long grassed open flats and swamp, some quite deep, until arriving at Doubtful River where I caught up to Rachel. We went upriver a little to get to a better crossing spot then bush bashed our way through stands of Matagauri to get back to the markers. We followed a few then lost them so we cut across to where we thought the track would emerge. This cutting across was not easy as it was through scrub and river stones.
Eventually we found a marker and were back on track. Rachel and I decided to walk together and talked as we walked. The track was on grass and went through some swampy bits until reaching a deer fence which we followed for a while. it then headed uphill through Manuka for longer than I expected. This was not the same route marked on the map but was the marked Tui route that was in the trail notes.
At the top we meandered through Manuka and open bits, often through swamp which were quite deep. Rachel only uses one walking pole so I loaned her one of mine for her to try out using two. Though I walked for years with one pole now I felt unbalanced and really missed the second pole. Rachel liked using both and will be investing in a second pole before her next long walk.
After what seemed like a long time we reached the junction and took a break. Now we were on the main track going through beech forest the condition improved significantly and we made ok time. I didn’t feel like pushing the pace and Rachel was happy with this. Fred and Nev overtook us but were still at the Hope Half Way Shelter when we arrived.
After a break we all continued and after skirting the river it was largely in the open. We passed a herd of cows including some large bulls. The time seemed to pass quickly as we were talking the whole time. This is the longest I have walked with someone and it was fun.
At the hut Fred and Nev were there as well as Michael Reed who greeted me by name as he recognised me from my blog. He is section hiking large chunks at a time and this time is going all the way to Queenstown or possibly Bluff depending on how he goes.
18 January 2015
Day 82. Hope Kiwi Lodge to Hurunui No 3 Hut.
I was up at 0630 and everyone else was also up. During the night mice had got into Fred’s pack and sampled his tortillas. There were mice in both other rooms but none in ours – that we noticed.
I was first off today at 0730. It was windy and occasionally there was light rain but it felt like it was going to open up with heavy rain at any moment. The track started in the open on old vehicle tracks and was a nice warm up though the stream crossing near the start was not warm. The track then headed into the bush and this was a change from last time I walked this track as an army exercise. I think the change was to avoid the swampy bit.
Once on the original track it was lovely and fast and in good condition. The track headed uphill gradually to the saddle. I kept expecting Fred and Nev to catch me which meant when I needed a toilet stop I needed to get well off the trail so I didn’t give them a fright.
From Kiwi Saddle the track undulated and came to another saddle with a lookout point a couple of minutes off the main trail and up a hill. The trees in front were too tall to see much either side but I could see the Lake.
As I was coming down Fred, Nev and Michael were going up so I had a guage of how far behind they were.
The track then undulated for a while gently going downhill to a Swingbridge and then on the flats until the end of the Lake. Now the track deteriorated and became rougher with lots of roots and deadfall to negotiate. This part was only a few km but took ages and was tiring. In this part I met Lucas another northbounder.
I then came into the open and headed across the flat to a large swingbridge. The weather improved and there were patches of blue sky and some sun. At the Swingbridge I tried to go right but the track petered out so I went left and came to a junction where I could go right to the next hut. It was only 20 minutes through bush on a good track to reach Hurunui Hut. 5 minutes short of the hut I saw a Kea. It flew across the track in front of me and landed at the next corner. I love the flash of orange they have when flying. Kea are a very intelligent green mountain parrot which are quite large and are destructive when curious or bored.. When I reached the corner the Kea looked at me for a while and walked closer for a better look. It then walked away and flew off. I was pretty chuffed with this encounter as I love Kea.
At the hut I filled in the Hut Book and then had lunch. Just as I was packing up the guys arrived.
The track headed downhill and out into the open river flats which were hard work into a strong headwind but I still made good time to the first junction. Only 800 meters from here was meant to be a hot pool but this took a while as from here the track became difficult again and was constantly up and down in and out of stream valleys, through roots, muddy patches and some deadfall. I smelt the hot pools well before seeing them. I came in under them and gave some mature ladies a fright as they were skinny dipping. I told them they had 20-30 minutes before the guys came along. They got out and I stripped to just undies and had a nice soak. The temperature was perfect and the Sandflys kept away from the pool though they were active in the area where I changed. There was a bit of tree debris in the pool so I found a rock to sit on. Once I was still the debris settled down. I then put my clothes back on and continued.
I was now really sleepy and my legs like jelly so the next part was challenging. It was more continuous up and down and clambering over trees and roots. I had to concentrate as the markers were hard to spot because of the amount of trees down due to storm damage.
The track then crossed an electric fence and came into open matagouri covered grass and the markers were too short to see over the matagouri. I lost the trail at one point but knew roughly where it should be and 20 meters later I was on a vehicle track and reached the hut not long after.
It was only 1520 but I decided to stop for the day as the two previous days were long and I was a little tired. 1630 Michael turned up and the others just before 1900. It was the same people as yesterday and my third night of just kiwis in a hut. We Had a fun evening and before going to bed hung our packs as the hut book talked about a lot of mice. They started appearing before it was even dark.
19 January 2015
Day 83. Hurunui No 3 Hut to Kiwi Hut.
I had drunk too much again so had to get up in the middle of the night and there were no stars which was ominous.
My alarm went off at 0630 and I could hear the rain and did not want to get up and judging by the lack of movement nor did anyone else. After a leisurely morning routine I donned my rain gear and ventured out of the shelter at 0740.
The track was in much better condition than I was expecting for the first 45 minutes through bush and some open bits. It was raining steadily but not too hard and it was fantastic in the bush with the green very vivid and everything glistening. There was a lot of birds and I had a fantail and several Robins keep me company.
I have had a sore stomach for the last two days but it hasn’t been too bad and I only noticed it occasionally. Today it was much worse and I was conscious of it all the time. It feels like indigestion and my stomach feels bloated. I am not sure what has caused it as there is nothing new in my diet. As my energy levels are fine I will just ignore it and hope it goes away.
I reached Cameron Hut and was glad I hadn’t pushed on as it was a small dark 4 bunk hut with no mattresses. Jory was in the hut. He is doing TA trying to be living off the trail using Maori techniques and barefoot where possible. After a brief chat and look at his pack I filled in the Hut Book and pushed on.
There was another hour of good track and then it was in and out of streams, up and down and concentrating on keeping on the trail. At one point there was a huge slip and lots of big trees in the river making it impossible to get through. I thought the trail would pick up on the other side so I decided to cross to the opposite side and bush bash up river to get past the obstacle then cross back to the track. to my surprise when I bush bashed to what looked easy walking there was the trail. The trail notes did not mention crossing the stream until after the pass. The track started to rise and I thought I must be close to the Harpers Bivy. I thought the terrain looked like it was near the top of the pass and knowing that the trail notes said there was half an hour climbing after the bivy I thought I might have missed it. 5 minutes later I arrived at a sign saying I was on Harpers Pass. Unfortunately there was no views due to the clouds so I didn’t linger.
The descent was much steeper and longer than the climb up. It was largely gravel and rocks. As everything was wet and slippery I took my time coming down and managed without incident.
Once back onto the flat the track was largely in the open which was not a great place to be when it is raining. I was still dry but when the wind picked up I started to get cold. Luckily it died down after 15 minutes and the sun tried really hard to make an appearance before giving up. The track makers were very sparce and it was a lot of guessing where the track went. There was no way to get lost as I was going down a large valley but the track was easier to walk on except for the many rocky patches.
When I got to a sandy bit I decided to have some fun and wrote a message for the guys following. I wrote “I am off to see the wizard. You are welcome”. This was so Fred would get this song stuck in his head again and I knew he would be swearing at me when he saw it rather than thanking me hence saying he was welcome. Another few km on I wrote a reinforcement “wizard” just in case he had managed to stop thinking about the song. After I camped after coming down from Wairau Pass I got this song in my head as I started in the morning. I mentioned this that night and the next day Fred had the song stuck in his head.
The hut came quicker than I expected. Locke Stream Hut was a nice 16 bunk hut and I had lunch there. At 1300 I continued on with more of the same track. The rain was getting harder and I started thinking about my options. I could do the big river crossing today before the effects of todays rain raised the tiver levels too much and then camp on the trail or I could have another early day and stay in Kiwi Hut and hope that the river was crossable tomorrow when I could cross with the others for safety and have a warm comfortable sleep. I decided if I reached the hut before 1500 I would continue on and cross the river but luckily I reached the turnoff at 1505. I headed for the hut and got the fire going straight away. I was dry except for a patch on my stomach for some reason. With the fire everything dried quickly and I relaxed for the next hour and a bit when the others arrived thankful for the fire. They were all wet, even those with gortex jackets so it made me pleased with how my jacket performed.
It was another fun night together and I am lucky to be spending this time with a good bunch of people. It would not be fun spending 4 nights if one of them was annoying.
The hut stayed toasty with the fire and I was hopeful of a mouse free night as there was mouse poison and a mouse trap and no droppings anywhere. This hut has been adopted by a man called Graham and he comes regularly to clean and do maintenance. I think this is why the hut is so well equipped.
As usual we went to sleep when it got dark.
20 January 2015
Day 84. Kiwi Hut to Goat Pass Hut.
I had a robin join me in the hut toilet which was a little strange. I left the door open to get some of the insects out and the Robin hopped in and started eating the insects.
We left together as last night I suggested we stick together for the two river crossings at the start and then go our separate ways. It was light drizzle that was clearing. The river crossings were not as bad as I was expecting. Despite the rain the rivers were running clear. We crossed the Taramakau River and it was not even knee deep. The Otehake River was separated into several channels, all except the last knee deep. The last one got my undies wet but only just. Luckily the water was not as icy as a few days ago.
We then kept together all the way to Morrisons Footbridge 15 km away. Everyone was moving at a good pace and there were no breaks, less taking off rain gear as the sun came out, so I was happy staying with the group. It was a novel experience walking with so many people but enjoyable.
The track was largely on the river flats which had lots of stones which are not easy to walk over. There were a couple of times into the bush, once with no trail to follow as I think the original trail had been washed away. At the junction there was a choice of the flood route or along the river and as it was a nice day we choose to walk by the river. There was a wide plain of river rock to walk over and several crossings, one of the Otira which was the most challenging of the day but still well within my comfort level. I knew there was a vehicle track along the main road so when the river squeezed us in that direction we took the tracks to the footbridge. There we said goodbye to Rachel who had to get back to work and I took off after a short rest.
As much as it was a nice change to walk with others it was nice to be by myself again. I was now heading up the Deception Valley which is the run route of the Coast to Coast Multisport Race which is famous in New Zealand. I have done it a couple of times so was familiar with the route. After a short stretch of marked track it was then unmarked and I just followed the river following beaten track where possible. I remembered some bits but had forgotten others. I remember the track being a lot easier but I guess when running with no pack you just bound over everything. By the end I was feeling a little tired. I was enjoying the Kea flying around. It rained for 30 minutes then cleared up again.
The trail had a lot of places that are just jumping along the boulders beside the river. There were also frequent crossing of the river from one side to the other. Overall I really enjoyed the challenge. It took me 6 hours from the footbridge to Goat Pass Hut which is only 14 km. For future TA trampers allow plenty of time for this section.
My stomach was better today and back to just occasional twinges but still feeling bloated.
After my robin experience in the toilet this morning everytime I went to the toilet this afternoon there was a Robin watching. It was cute this morning but was then just creepy being watched so intently while doing my private businesses.
At the hut I washed the last of the river gravel out of my shoes and prepared dinner. Fred, Nev and Michael were not far behind me in arriving at the hut. I sorted through my photos so I had more time when I get to Arthurs Pass tomorrow for posting my blog, eating and relaxing.
The hut has no fire and it was cold. Cold enough to see our breath. We all had our jackets and hats on. On the plus side is the incredible views and a friendly Weka.
I am finishing this update listening to the Keas calling out near the hut.
21 January 2015
Day 85. Goat Pass Hut to Arthurs Pass.
It was misty and really cold. Within 5 minutes my hands were numb and I was tempted to get my gloves out but I knew the track dropped altitude quickly and I would be warm soon. There were heaps of sections of boardwalk and I was moving quickly and reached the bushline where it was warmer and my hands began to thaw – ow!
The track was familiar having run it a few times but I don’t remember it being so rough with roots and rocks. Despite this I was making good time and the climb up Dudleys Knob was easier than I remembered. Now it was a bit more bush then into the river flats alternating between river stones and trails through scrub. It didn’t seem long before I could see the road and after an easy crossing of the Bealey River I reached the road at 1120. There was not much traffic so I was happy that within 10 minutes I got a ride with two trampers to Arthurs Pass.
My stomach was better with only a few twinges but was still bloated.
There I checked into the Mountain House YHA Backpackers and picked up my resupply parcel. I was impressed with the backpackers. Friendly staff, unlimited WiFi that was fast, clean and well equipped. And with my Low Carbon discount only $19.
As they were still cleaning i went straight to the General Store for a lovely Chicken and Camenbert Pie, hot chips with vinegar and a cupaccino. I sat outside and received the Kea warning speil. Apparently they were on form today and stealing lots of food directly off people’s plates. I ended up sitting with the couple who had given me a ride. They were waiting for her parents before starting a two day tramp. We were entertained watching the Kea. One of the waitresses had a squirty bottle to try and teach the Kea not to steal food but the minute she went away they came back. It is harmful for Kea to eat our food as it is too rich for them. I suggested to the lady that she gives me the bottle which she did so I had fun squirting the Kea but they quickly learnt my range. She gave a bigger bottle to the guy and the Kea got a few hits until they learnt the range of that one too
I headed back to the Backpacker and after a long hot shower I did my laundry and updated my blog. I was regularly interrupted as the room filled and introductions were done. I had a break for an ice cream and when I struggled with the rubbish bin lid I realised that it was weighted to stop the Kea opening it.
For dinner I had fish and chips, seeing Michael at the cafe, but could not eat more than half as my stomach was still bloated. It was so frustrating as they were so good and I knew my body needed them.
At dinner it was Daniela and myself but this quickly turned into a full table with the whole dorm room and a guy. We were a mixed bunch. Daniela is a wood joiner from Switzerland. Jette is in Marketing from Germany. Kate is a jewellery designer from Birmingham English, Caroline is in council management from England and the guy whose name I didn’t catch is from Israel. At 2300 I went to bed, really late for me.
22 January 2015
Day 86. Arthurs Pass to Hamilton Hut.
Back at the trail where I left it I followed a nice walkway through the trees to Greyney Shelter. Then it was on the road for a couple of hundred meters then left back to the river. I saw a marker pole but the track was so overgrown I decided to just walk over the river stones. My left hand was sore around the base of the thumb. I have noticed this occasionally over the last few days but it hasn’t been bothering me until today so I only used the other pole when the terrain allowed.
With a km to go to the Waimakariri River I saw the markers again and followed them to the river. I then walked upstream a little to a great crossing point where the water was below knee height.
From the river the track heads to the Bealey Hotel and out to the road which I followed for 2 km to Bealey Spur. Here my lack of concentration cost me an hour. I turned up here despite thinking the road name was different than I thought. I followed the road up the hill to the track start. There was a sign saying 2 hours to Bealey Spur Hut which sounded long to me so I checked my map and saw this was a different hut to Bealey Hut near the start of the track and this was the second time I should have noticed something was wrong. I continued up the track stopping to talk with parents and young kids. I reached a flatter bit and could put some speed on..There was an opening in the trees to the left and I saw a ridge that looked a lot like the one I should be walking on. After checking my map I realised I was on the wrong ridge – aargh! Rather than walk all the way back I thought I would bush bash to the other ridge but that option ended after 10 minutes when I came to a cliff and saw it was cliffs on the other side too. So I bush bashed back to the track and went all the way back down to the main road. 1 hour and 3 km stupidity tax!
Now I was back on the road for another couple of km to the correct road. On the way I saw what looked like a great shortcut with markers but the map and trail notes said follow the main road. From the other side there was a sign saying “Waimakariri River Walk” so I think I could have taken the shortcut.
At the track carpark was a mother and her 9 year old daughter who had just completed the 33 km Cass Lagoon Circuit. Not a bad effort for a 9 year old. They had just seen a Falcon swoop on a mouse so were buzzing. There were mice everywhere which is not good. I had been seeing them all along the road and in the bush. The high numbers are due to the Beech Mast.
From the carpark it was a steady zig zag (switchback) climb up the hill through bush and then pine forest. The track was busy with 7 people heading down.
Once into the open the track sidled slowly gaining height. Along here the views were fantastic. Mountains and braided rivers. It was distracting and I took lots of photos. I had nearly run out of water but there were several side streams so I was able to refil.
There were some swampy areas and some boardwalks but these were in a bad state which surprised me given how popular the Cass Lagoon Circuit is.
Once over the saddle it was into the bush and now the track was fantastic for the next few km. I passed the cute A Frame Hut on the way. It was then in the river bed, crossing several times before climbing up high and back down again. I was starting to get low on energy as I have lost my appatite. My stomach feels overfull constantly and even having a drink of water makes it feel ready to burst. This means I am not eating as much as usual and have less energy later in the day.
At West Harper Hut I had a look in as it was a historical hut. I interpret this as a hut you only stay in if you are desperate and this one was true to form with dirt floor and ripped canvas bunks.
From the hut the track was great and I was able to move fast. While walking I was debating whether to go to Hamilton Hut (500 metres off trail) or camp. I didn’t feel like being around people and the weather was great so I decided to camp up until I found myself on the track to the hut unconsciously. I think I saw the sign saying 5 minutes to the Hut and automatically turned. As I approached the hut I saw a person leaving and was pleasantly surprised that there was no one there. Yay huge hut to myself.
I had dinner and crashed, not even staying awake long enough to finish my blog entry.
23 January 2015
Day 87. Hamilton Hut to Lake Georgina.
I stopped for a break and as I stood up to put my pack on I looked up and saw the Pinnacles. I think I may have missed them if I didn’t have that break.
The track crossed the Harper river and then 5 minutes later the Ada which was a braided river that took a while to cross and concentration to keep to the track. From there it was onto a farm track across the flats and after a couple more stream crossings onto a metal (gravel) track. Here I found some shade and dried my feet while having a long lunch. Two mature trampers came while I was sitting there. They were heading to Hamilton Hut and not happy when I told them about the company they would have.
It was now only two km to Harper Village. Once through the few houses it was a big climb, passing the 2200 km milestone. I now had 12 km of gravel road passing 4 lakes. One was called Lake Selfie so I had to take a selfie of it. A couple of people stopped to offer me a ride. One was the farm manager so I asked permission to camp at a treeline shown on the map and he suggested a better spot 2 km in by a lake.
The road walk took ages. It was hot and I didn’t have a lit if energy so was taking heaps of breaks. The strong headwind didn’t help.
My stomach was not sore but is still bloated but not as much as yesterday. I still have no appetite so am struggling to force food into myself and am not eating enough which is affecting my energy levels. I am looking forward to a couple of half days and some real food tomorrow.
The tree line on the map would be a good campsite but I was happy at the lake in a small patch of pine trees. It was windy so I tucked into the thickest part. There was a car not far away and I said hi as I headed to the lake to filter some water. I was digging my toilet hole when the guy from the car walked up and offered for me to use his cooker for my dinner and to use the back of his vehicle as it was sheltered from the wind. I accepted and had dinner while talking about South Africa where he is originally from.
Once finished I headed back to my tent and crashed.
24 January 2015
Day 88. Lake Georgina to Rakaia River.
The Rakaia River is an official hazard zone as it is too dangerous to cross. This means a difficult hitchhike or expensive shuttle. Luckily for me my parents had asked where they could meet me on the trail and I suggested here. I was looking forwards to seeing them, and for the food they were bringing – in that order!
While waiting a convoy of orange Champion tractors (Australiam brand) came past. They had driven from Christchurch to Horirata yesterday and now here – at 35 km/h. Funny what people love doing – yes I know I am hardly one to speak given my current adventure.
At 1300 they arrived and we headed to Methven Holiday Park for the night. We settled in and I was spoilt with fantastic food. It was nice to catch up and also have the dogs around. We went to the Blue Bar and had a great meal. Once back in my cabin I did some work in my pack reinforcing the bottom where I thought it might leak and fixing the hip pocket attachment where the elastic broke. We then discussed my resupply plan and it looks like I am finishing around 22 February which doesn’t seem that far away. It is way earlier than my original planning.
I went to sleep enjoying a queen size bed.
6 comments:
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Anonymous 25 January 2015 at 13:56 I think it sounds like your tummy is getting better. Looking forward to the rest of your journey. MikeG -
Restless Kiwi: Walking the Te Araroa Trail 30 January 2015 at 12:13 Hi Mike. My stomach is much better though still not 100% but not affecting me apart from lack of appetite.
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Sally Billington 25 January 2015 at 19:16 Wondered how you were going to get around the river ‘hazard’ – good ol’ mum and dad. I’m sure they will also provide a much needed boost.
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Restless Kiwi: Walking the Te Araroa Trail 30 January 2015 at 12:14 I think I put on a little weight with the fabulous food they cooked.Anonymous 26 January 2015 at 23:01 Hope it all goes well. I’ve been enjoying the blog and considering my ownRestless Kiwi: Walking the Te Araroa Trail 30 January 2015 at 12:15 I definitely recommend doing this. It is an amazing experience.
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Anonymous 26 January 2015 at 23:01 Hope it all goes well. I’ve been enjoying the blog and considering my own.Restless Kiwi: Walking the Te Araroa Trail 30 January 2015 at 12:15 I definitely recommend doing this. It is an amazing experience.
25 January 2015
Day 89. Rakaia River to Comyns Hut.
We arrived at the trail head and after a photo and goodbyes I was off at 1200. I felt like I had just had a holiday even though it was only two 1/2 days off.
The track started through farmland which I was worried was going to stay overgrown but turned into a nice single track and then a vehicle track that steadily climbed. I stopped to talk to 4 trampers for a while then continued climbing. It was really hot with very little wind. I soaked my hat in every stream and this worked well to keep me cooler for 10 minutes until it dried. At the top of this long hill was a saddle then we climbed up a bit more before sidling and descending to A Frame Hut- yet another name that required a lot of thought.
The terrain is very barren. The main colours are brown and grey whuch is a big change from the vibrant greens of the bush. I am now in the High Country for the next week which means big blue skys, tussock, spiky Matagauri, spiky Spaniard and lots of big hills and mountains. The bird life is reduced but still there and the sounds of insects now dominate.
From A Frame Hut it was an easy walk, still on old vehicle tracks, down the river with one climb to get over a canyon. There were heaps of river crossings but I kept my feet dry by jumping across the rocks.
I reached the hut quite early and looked at the map to carry on but the next part will be in a narrow valley then climbing over a pass which does not sound promising for a tent. I decided to stay and work my way through my food and read. There was a good selection with a Wilderness, Women’s Weekly, FMC and National Geographic Magazine. When I finished those I found a Barry Crump book called Wild Pork and Watercress which was a good read. I finished that and went to bed early.
26 January 2015
Day 90. Comyns Hut to Clearwater Track.
At 0710 I headed off up Round Hill Creek which in the course of 2.5 hours I crossed 51 times. I was counting! The creek started narrow but then widened slightly to allow some grass and rock travel out of the Creek bed. Overall it was quite tiring but quite fun. I found the marker poles were ok and it was clear when to leave the creek and start climbing
The climb from the creek to Clent Hills Saddle was marked with poles which were easy to see, though in mist they would be too far apart. There was no defined track through the tussock but travel was ok and sometimes there would be a faint trail which was faster to move on. I quite liked having to pick my own path even though it is much more tiring than following an established path. I was glad to have my full gaiters which my parents delivered, to protect me from the spiky plants. From the saddle there were great views all the way to the flats- different shades of brown as far as I could see.
The track then sidled to the right which is difficult on tussock as it is slippery. I was happy to get onto the scree slope as it’s much easier to sidle and the exposure doesn’t worry me. After a few scree slopes and some tussock I arrived at the right ridge and there were people there. It was 3 Americans who are doing Te Araroa Northbound. They introduced themselves by their trail names; Apple Pie, Green Leaf and Burrito. Trail names are common on the American long trails but not so much on this trail. They are at day 36 but have taken some detours to do Routeburn and dome walking around Mt Cook National Park. After a good chat we continued on our way.
I started down the ridgeline and then my track spidy senses started to sound the alarm so I checked my map and sure enough I was meant to head right to another ridge. I looked in that direction and saw a marker pole so I had stopped in time to prevent me having to go back up the ridge. I crossed over to where the pole was and continued following then across some gullys and finally up to a saddle before descending down. I found a great track but it was too high ao I dropped back down to the markers but later saw this track came out in the right place and I could have kept on it – hindsite is frustrating.
Once on the flats it was easy walking on a track to the junction to Double Hut. As the hut is 1 km off the trail I didn’t visit it. Now the track was on an old vehicle track and easy going. I stopped for lunch and loved not having peanut butter which I was usung since the Tararuas because it is compact and high energy. Now I am having cheese, salami and hummus tortillas.
The two lakes beside the track were both completely dry. I didn’t go to Manuka Hut as this was 500 metres off the trail which is too much. The wind had picked up and was now strong. This was good to keep cool and it was at my back so I didn’t mind the extra push down the track.
After a km the track climbed and then sidled down the other side
and then joined a farm track for 3 km. The wind was now coming towards me and it was hard work making forward progress. This part seemed to take ages. The scenery is nice but it is all in the distance and doesn’t change so progress seems slower. I was nearly out of water as the wind is drying me out and I am drinking more than normal. Luckily at the farm was a stream which I could use to filter.
Now there was a 4.4 km road walk which went quickly. The wind was back behind me except for the last 700 meters. Along the way a lovely couple stopped to offer me a lift and we chatted for a while.
At the end of the road walk I crossed a bridge and stopped to filter more water, including enough for camp tonight. I had hoped there might have been some trees at the river I could camp in but no such luck so I started Clearwater Track. This was lovely easy walking across the flats on a nice track. It was still windy and unfortunately a head wind. I decided to reach the hills so I could have some shelter from the wind.
I found a nice spot between some tussock and setup camp. The view is pretty good.
27 January 2015
Day 91. Clearwater Track to Crooked Spur Hut.
I was on my way at 0730 and thankfully the wind had gone away. The track stayed easy and I made good time to the first junction. From here it was a vehicle track and I kept a good pace. There was a junction that had a DOC sign only giving the carpark I had come from, not where the two options (both poled) were going. I looked at my map and chose the left track. Now the vehicle track was a little rougher but still ok. I was now travelling in some ruggard country between two rocky hills. This was great as unlike yesterday I had a sense of progress.
The first plateau dropped to another and then there was another junction with marker poles going in two directions but no sign. Once again I chose left.
Not long after was a junction by a dried up lake and it was back to single track for the steep descent to another junction. Coming down I could see Lake Clearwater. The track followed the Te Araroa signpost and was lovely single track for the descent down to the flat above the lake and then on an old vehicle track. It was back to distant scenery and lack of indicators to show progress. It was neat to see the snow covered mountains but after an hour of looking the excitement faded.
Now I left the farm track and it was single track through some little hills to Potts River which was nice. The track then stayed above the river for a couple of km before dropping to the river. I was watching in the distance a camper van going down the hill very slowly being held up by a big mob of sheep. I was hoping to arrive at the road ahead as it would be a great photo. Once in the river bed the track was on grass and then the last few hundred metres was on river stones. Just before getting to the road the camper van went past so the sheep must have pulled into a paddock.
At the carpark were Fred, Nev and their friend who was going to fly them over the river in his helicopter but there was a big fog in Christchurch so no flying. He drove out to let them know but forgot to bring the beer so was being hassled.
After a short rest I carried on. The next section is the Rangitata River which is another hazard zone where are encouraged to go around without affecting the integrity of the trail but I had received several reports that the river was crossable and there hadn’t been rain for a while so I decided to give it a go.
I crossed the Potts River on the bridge and then started across. The Rangitata River is a wide braided river. I got lucky and stumbled across a vehicle track which was heading towards the river though not at the angle I wanted. I decided I would take the quicker and easier travel that the track offered and do the extra distance. The track took me to within a few hundred metres of the first crossing. In preparation I put my Personal Locator Beacon around my neck and moved everything from my pockets to the main compartment of my pack. I walked 20 meters upstream to a better crossing spot and crossed. The current was strong but the water was only knee deep. The most difficult thing was that the rocks were covered in something and were really slippery. Once across I continued the Rangitata River crossing. Sometimes on gravel, sometimes short plants, sometimes long grass and some swampy bits. There were several braids to cross and none of them were over knee deep though I did have to walk upstream a little to get to good crossing points.
In 2 hours I was across and now had a wide floodplain of rocks to climb to the track start. I found a walking pole so picked it up thinking of Nev who tends to break his. As I was walking I saw what looked like a large orange triangle so conditioned as I am I veered across to it. Looking on my map I could take this vehicle track 600 meters to the track start and then follow a marked track or I could continue walking a shorter more direct route on the rocks. I choose the track option. At the marker I put the trekking pole in an obvious place. I didn’t know if Fred and Nev were in front or behind my as they took a more direct route across the river and I didn’t want to carry the pole all the way to the hut. I had a leisurely late lunch and then continued.
As I reached where the two route options met I saw Fred and Nev. I am not sure if I was faster across the river or the road/track option was better or if they also took a long break . Either way I am happy with my choices.
Now we were following the river up the narrow valley. We started on a overgrown track with lots of Matagauri so I put my long gaiters back on. The going was slow as most of the time it was river rock travel. I stopped for my 2300 km photo and to filter some water which let the others get ahead.
After 2.5 hours I went through a rare patch of trees and once back at the river my track spidy sense started ringing alarm bells. I thought I saw a marker in the hill above on the left so stood there looking for a trail. As I was looking I heard some yelling and it was the guys on the hill telling me I had missed the turnoff. I looked back and saw the marker. Their yelling saved me some time figuring out why something felt off and then getting back on track.
I thought this was the climb to the hut and not being 100% sure there would be water at the hut given the lack of rain I decided to get enough water for the night. It was then a steep climb and sidle before descending down again. Though disappointed it wasn’t the hut climb I did remember that the notes mentioned a climb over some bluffs so was not concerned.
At the bottom the markers lead up again on the other side of the Creek and I thought this must be to the hut. It was a very steep 30 minute climb to the hut. There were two hunters in the hut as well as Fred and Nev so I was stuck with a top bunk for the first time.
There was a stream nearby so I filled up 2 litres as I was still really thirsty despite drinking so much. The hunters were polite and easygoing.
After dinner which I had to force down as I still have no appetite we chatted until bed.
28 January 2015
Day 92. Crooked Spur Hut to Camp Stream Hut.
This morning there was a heavy mist but by the time I left at 0730 it had cleared around the hut but was still in the valleys below. Fred and Nev left and after a sightseeing tour of the creek came back and headed in the right direction. I followed 5 minutes later.
After only 5 minutes I saw an alpine Weta which is a first for me so I was pretty happy. I was feeling good and enjoyed the steady climb up through the tussock. There was a track so it was easy going. The mist returned for a short while and it was lucky there was a track as the markers were too far apart to see through the mist. The last part of the climb was steep and a mixture of tussock and gravel.
At the top I took a photo with Fred and Nev then started down ahead of them. The steep part of the descent was scree so I was able to bound down which was fun.
Then it was following the very far apart marker poles. For some reason the picture in my head of this section was very different from the reality. This meant it was taking me a while to find the markers as I was often looking in the wrong direction to start. There was no track to follow to see the right direction and I picked my own path between the tussock. This was a fun section that had a lot of up and down and great scenery though occasionally the mist returned.
The track joined an old vehicle track that was largely down to one side due to rockfall and slips. After crossing a strange looking stock bridge I reached Stone Hut where I took a break. It took exactly 3 hours to reach this hut. Just as I was leaving Fred and Nev turned up.
Next was 5.5 km travelling beside a river and there was a trail to follow as well as the marker poles. This was also a good section and seemed to pass quickly and I arrived at Royal Hut in 1 hour 30 minutes. I had a long break here to have lunch. While eating I read the back of the door which had the names of mustering crews going back to 1944. The hut was named Royal Hut after Prince Charles and Princess Anne stayed there. I also read the Hut Book and saw an entry for H. Clarke. This is Helen Clarke who used to be our Prime Minister and now the head of the United Nations Development Programme, arguably the second most important position in the United Nations. She is a keen tramper and it looked an interesting and challenging route her party was taking.
At 1315 I headed up the valley for the big climb of the day to the highest point on the entire Te Araroa trail. It started going up beside a stream crossing frequently before heading steeply up through untracked tussock to a plateau then up steeply, another smaller plateau and then the final climb to Stag Saddle at 1925 meters above sea level which was the highest point on Te Araroa. However now the route officially offers the ridge option to the next hut for the first year so the highest point is now on the ridge at 1944 meters. The original route was down the valley in thick tussock but it is marked. The new route is unmarked and from the saddle travel over rocks and then a climb up to the ridge where there was a great track and great views over Lake Tekapo and the Southern Alps. Unfortunately it was a little cloudy but still impressive. At the high point I climbed above the track to the cairn which I placed another stone on.
After some photos I continued 3.5 km along the ridge and the track stayed excellent until above Rex Simpson hut. From there it was tussock bashing along the ridge for another 2.5 km. Luckily the tussoch was not too thick and I could weave through the open bits and maintain good speed.
I dropped off the ridge to a vehicle track which I followed to the hut. As I aproached I saw two people outside. This was Snir from Israel going north and Antoine from Switzerland going south. Snir offered me a tea and Timtams so was instantly popular with me. Camp Stream Hut was built in 1897 which for New Zealand is ancient. It is the smallest 6 bunk hut I have seen and as a result we hung out outside to cook dinner and talk. It was fantastic seeing the clouds rolling over the ridge behind but was cold enough I had to put on my jacket. As usual we went to bed around 2115 as it got dark
3 comments:
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Sally Billington 30 January 2015 at 19:22 So enjoying your blog – next best to being there. Keep safe. We are eagerly awaiting the next episodes.
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Anonymous 31 January 2015 at 11:18 I see kiwiscout in the book as wel – another TA tramper and blogger from a season or two ago.
29 January 2015
Day 93. Camp Stream Hut to Lake Tekapo.
By the time the rest of us got up the mist had lifted but it was overcast. This was nice as it kept the temperature down.
I was the next away at 0715. It was a short descent then following a track, which is now a luxury, along a stream. There were a couple of crossings but dry feet ones. As I was about to join the next valley two ladies came running towards me. They were doing a trail run as training to be support runners for Mal Law who is doing 50 peaks in 50 days to raise money for mental health. One of the ladies is doing Te Araroa by sections and was interested in my pack. After some discussion I reluctantly (yeah right!) gave them a tour of some of my gear.
Continuing on it was 5 minutes down the new stream until the climb started. I was really annoyed that at the base of the climb was a swampy bit that meant not only were my shoes wet but they were muddy wet. What made it worse was from just a little bit up the hill I saw the swampy area could be avoided if the track continued just 30 meters more before starting the climb. It was a short but steep climb to the Plateau which I followed the edge for a while before cutting back in to a ski field access road.
Right before the road was a stream so I stopped and washed my shoes and socks of the horrible swamp mud. To my surprise Antoine arrived. He started well before me. He had missed the turnoff up the hill and once he realised he took a very steep route up to the Plateau. He took a short break before continuing and then Fred and Nev arrived and took a break.
I took off and after the ski field road started following a former vehicle track that had a path caused by sheep that would have been perfect to walk on except it was too narrow. I felt like I was tightrope walking trying to stay on the track so I ended up with one foot in it and the other beside. I had to alternate as the track was sunken and I felt lopsided. Where possible I walked beside the track. It was really frustrating to have such a nice track unusable.
I stopped for a break at a spot over looking Lake Tekapo and Fred and Nev caught up and also took a break. The sun had come out now and it was getting hot again. When we started I made them go in front as they are quicker than me on the flats, especially when they can almost smell the beer waiting in Tekapo. I stayed with them for a while and we met two American northbounders. They recognised my name and said they had read my blog, I had answered their questions on Facebook and they were using my maps. When we left them Fred and Nev hassled me about being a celebrity as this is not the first time this has happened.
After another 10 minutes I realised I was walking faster than I was comfortable with given how far I had left to walk so I stopped to put some distance between the guys and me so I wouldn’t be tempted to keep up with them. Now walking a more sensible pace I continued the descent to the lake.
Once at the lake it was a hot road walk for 13 km to Tekapo. I managed to get into my road walking zone quickly and the walk went quickly until the final straight when I could see Tekapo but still had 4 km to go.
As I got closer I left the road and joined the lake edge track to the two tourist photo spots in Tekapo; the shepard dog statue and the old church. There were busloads of Asians there so it took some patience to get my photos. It was then 5 minutes to town where I stopped for a pastry and smoothy at the Bakery before going to the Backpacker.
I had booked into the YHA for tomorrow and I saw a no vacancy sign as I approached which did not look good. I explained that my booking waa for tomorrow and the guy told me he just had one bed become available 10 minutes ago which I could have. If I hadn’t stopped for lunch I would have been spending my rest day in a tent.
I went through my normal priorities of shower, laundry and more food. The 4 Square is well stocked so I got everything I wanted.
I found some books at the backpackers and read while munching on fruit and chips. By the time I should have been ready for dinner my stomach was not happy and I noisily occupied a toilet stall for a while. I put this down to the reheated chicken and cheese pastry or smoothy I had for lunch.
I finished the first book and was in bed by 2215.
1 comment:
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Sally Billington 8 February 2015 at 20:32 I’ll bet you’re already planning the next venture as those final km pass under your shoes?
30 January 2015
Day 94. Lake Tekapo zero day.
At 1630 the free shuttle for the Tekapo Springs picked me up. I spent the next 50 minutes soaking in the hottest pool. It is great, you look at pine trees one way and the lake the other way. At 1730 I had a one hour full body massage and it was fantastic. Perfect pressure and great technique. I went in for another hot soak before getting a shuttle back.
I then went to a restaurant and had a lovely steak, chips and salad that was so big I couldn’t finish it. I then waddled back to the Backpacker feeling very full and went to bed.
This was a great rest day.
31 January 2015
Day 95. Lake Tekapo to Lake Pukaki.
Feeling rather stuffed full I took it easy for the 5 km road walk on the main road. Generally there was a shoulder and the traffic was light.
Then I turned onto Braemar Road where I remained for the next 22 km. It was overcast so it wasn’t hot and I got into a good zone and the km flew past. Much of the road is going past Army Training Area so my army past occupied a lot of my thoughts on this bit. I passed the old Telegraph Hut which would be fun to stay in.
At the highest point I could see the rain coming across the hills. Just as I stopped for a break it started spitting slightly so I cut short my break and walked fast to try to outpace the rain. I had 5 minutes of light spitting rain then I was clear. I met one northbounder and we exchanged track information before going our separate ways. I got to Lake Pukaki at 1700 and decided I would push on until 2000.
The road was another gravel road so I made good time stopping to take the 2400 km photo and talk to 2 more northbounders.
Just before 2000 I reached the place that looked on the map to be good for camping and found a great spot. After putting up my tent I went down to the lake to filter some water.
I took my time as the evening light was lovely. I got dinner cooking (rehydrating) and took some sunset photos but there were too many clouds for a good one. It was great to dit by the water and not be attacked by insects. Then dinner, which I struggled to eat, and bed.
1 February 2015
Day 96. Lake Pukaki to Ohau River.
I shook my tent of excess water and packed it up. From previous experience I know that even packing it tightly when wet the inside will be dry when I put it up and the outside will dry in 10 minutes, even in the shade. This is one of the great things about Cubin Fibre material.
Light rain began just after I started but these stopped after 15 minutes and then I got too hot and took off my wet weather gear. I had more road walking today. Firstly past a power station to the main road. It was funny seeing the white dots all down the lake edge that were campervans.
Near the main road (SH8) I turned onto a lake edge track built/refurbished for the Alps to Ocean Cycle Track. This was like a gravel vehicle road and I counted this as road walking. Three bikers were on the trail.
From the head of the lake it was over conservation land and I had my hopes up that it would be a nice trail but it was another vehicle track. Just past the turnoff from the lake is an area I have come to several times when on training with the army. I can still remember where I sited everything when I depoyed as Company Commander in charge of a Combat Services Support Company – fun times especially with the great team I had. My reminiscing kept me occupied as I followed the new track through some pine trees and over a gully.
Then the track entered the conservation land which was flat and featureless. I dislike this sort of terrain as you get no sense of progress and it always feels like it takes ages to get anywhere. By now there was blue sky with a blazing hot sun and no breeze. On this section my pack felt heavy and most of the weigh on my shoulders. I have lost so much weigh I can’t do up my hip belt tight enough to transfer the weight to my hips. Also my bum has melted away so I don’t have the platform I used to which my pack rested on. I need to get some padding for the hip belt.
Finally I reached SH8 and it was a short walk on a nice track beside the road into Twizel. I detoured here to the shopping centre where I had a pie and fruit juice. They had no chocolate milk which I had been fantasising about. I followed that up with a lemonade Popsicle which is very refreshing. I took my time and was over an hour. Just as I was leaving I met Marianne and Hannah, two young Americans, who I had been following all South Island via the hut books. I nearly caught up to them several times as I am faster in the hills but then I would take a rest day and they would get further ahead. I finally overtook them after Rakaia when they took a rest day but they overtook me in Tekapo when I had my rest day. It was fun having someone to chase. They will probably catch back up when I take a rest day in Wanaka.
I left them and made my way out of Twizel passing the large vehicle display related to the building of the power station nearby. Then it was a vehicle track that would have been nicer before they cut down the trees on both sides. I did see an unexpected sight here – a Donkey. In NZ Donkeys are not common and are considered exotic pets.
The track headed back to SH8 and followed beside that until over the spillway for another power station then turned to follow the western side of Lake Ruataniwha. This lake was another with the beautiful turquoise blue colour in the sun.
The first three km was meant to be a track above the lake but again this was a vehicle track. At least this one was easier walking than the gravel road righ next to it which had very coarse gravel. I followed this to the head of the lake then beside Ohau River. I started looking for a campsite at 1830 and 30 minutes later found one which will be ok unless there is torrential rain in which case I will be flooded. There are not many options for camping that is not prickles or potential swamp. I went on a mission to get water which was not easy as there was thick matagouri and a prickly plant I think looks like a rose. Eventually I got through and back in one piece though with a few more scratches and some sacrificial blood to appease the prickly plants..
I had the luxury of fresh fruit which I had brought in Twizel so I forgo my normal pudding for a nectarine which was great. As I finish this it is starting to rain. I hope it doesn’t rain too hard or I will by camped on a lake edge or in the lake. As much as I an curious about how my tent floor would hold up I don’t want to test it.
2 February 2015
Day 97. Ohau River to Ahuriri River.
It rained again on and off last night but had stopped by the time I woke up and the ground was dry. I snoozed a bit to give my tent more time to dry and by the time I packed it up it was dry.
I emerged from the trees at 0815 and had a 6 km road walk to start the day. I was amazed at how many rabbits there were. At one stage I could see 13 all at once and the longest I went without seeing one was 40 seconds.
At the head of the lake the track rejoined the Alps to Ocean Cycke trail on a purpose built 1.5 meter wide gravel path around the edge of Lake Ohau. Just as I finished this it started to rain. It stopped raining 15 minutes later. I followed the road past another little lake and the Lake Ohau Alpine Village then I had lunch overlooking the lake.
It was hot again so off came my rain gear. Now the trail notes said to take the track at the beech trees but this was too overgrown to follow so I went back to the road for a bit then found the track was better and followed it to the end. There was a couple of hundred meters of road walking then onto a farm track. At the start of the track an older man was starting his daily walk with his German Shepherd. As I approached the dog came running up to me and I was surprised the man made no attempt to call it. While I am fine with dogs I can imagine that would be very scary to someone not used to dogs. The man knew about the Te Araroa but I get the feeling he wasn’t a supporter. He made some comments about little packs and unprepared trampers. I explained I was carrying everything a normal tramper would, just lighter and more compact. I took a break to let him get ahead and as the rain started again I put my rain gear back on. 5 minutes later the rain was gone and it was hot so rain gear off -again!
I started heading uphill gently on a lovely grass vehicle track which then joined a MTB track that I think must be the Alps to Ocean again. The views back over Lake Ohau were great.
The track entered some bush and I took a break to have my last nectarine. I had my map out and put it in my mouth to get the nectarine out and when I grabbed the map I gave myself a pair cut on the inside of my upper lip which as you can imagine hurt and bleed a bit. It also made it painful to easy my nectarine but I had already taken a bite so I couldn’t put it away fot later and there was no way I was not going to eat it regardless of the pain and blood.
I continued walking and was nearly run off the path. Two NOBO were walking towards me and the one on my side was starting at his feet. I thought he would look up occasionally but no so I waa just about to say something when the other person pulled him over. I paused ready to talk and they just kept going. That is the first time hikers on the trail have not wanted to talk and was strange. I could understand if there were heaps of trampers and they were sick of stopping but as far as I am aware there would not have been anyone ahead of me today.
After crossing a bridge I left the mountain bike trail and was on a nice track heading up through bush by a stream. It was great to be back in the bush again and I was greedily sucking in the many shades of vibrant green after spending the last weeks surrounded by browns and greys. I even realised I had missed the orange triangles. The track was in good condition and interesting with plenty of rocky bits to keep me concentrating. I stopped for a break and to refil my water at the informal campsite near the bush line and it started to rain again but heavily this time.
I had a decision to make here. I could camp in the shelter of the bush though it was still early and have risk of mist the next morning. The other option was to continue on and risk having to camp in an exposed place. There were some trees but they were 17 km away over untracked tussock after already having walked 26 km that day. I decided to keep going and take the risk of finding a decent campsite. I figured I still haven’t really tested my tent yet so it would be interesting to see how it performed in terrible conditions.
I put my rain gear back on and left the shelter of the bush. The first km was tracked but at the junction it was following poles and picking my own route between tussock and spiky Spaniard. I found the poles easy to follow but did need to search hard to spot some. This route would be tricky in low visibility so I am glad I did not risk a misty low visibility start tomorrow. The rain stopped after 20 minutes and rain gear off again. The climb was short and then it was a wide saddly that was swampy to cross before starting the descent to the valley below.
During this section I got a song in my head that I had heard in the cafe in Tekapo just before I left. The song was ‘Young Gun’ which I really liked when it came out I think in the early 90s. I had it on casette. As I walked along more and more of the song came back to me but after 4 hours I started to get really sick of the song.
Once down it was following the stream down with ample marker poles indicating which side of the stream was best. It started raining again once I hit the valley floor and this time was sustained rain for 3 hours.
I was pleasantly surprised by how wide the valley was and that the travel was much easier than I expected. There was a trail for some bits and a lot of open bits.
As I was trudging in the rain I saw what looked like a person ahead just standing still. I couldn’t see a pack and they were just standing in the rain. It took me 10 minutes to reach them and I was concerned that they might be in trouble or have hyperthermia. This got me running through different options to respond to the scenarios. I was relieved when I reached them to see the pack on the ground and that they looked fine. This person was Graham who was doing the trail northbound. He was deciding whether to pitch his tent there and was waiting for me to learn if there was a better spot ahead. I told him apart from the bush camp there was nothing special ahead. We talk for a while and I got the impression he was hoping I would also camp there. However I now thought the tree shelter belt was a feasible option now as I had been moving much quicker than expected and wanting some shelter from the rain. I was starting to get cold and looking up at him was letting water trickle into my rain jacket so after a couple of attempts to break away I left. If the weather was better I would have stopped and had a longer chat as he seemed an interesting guy.
I continued on and the rain started easing up finally. After more travel by the river the markers took me up high above the river and I sidled for a while. Once more I had to search hard for the next marker before heading to it. I saw a hut down on the other side of the river but the trail notes said it was derelict so I kept going. Just before we descend I could see the going was getting better. Once back down the poles indicated staying on a plateau just above the river and the surface was good enough for me to crank up the speed. The rain had stopped bit it was still cold.
I rounded the corner and gave a yell as I spotted the pine trees, though they were still 3 km away. I was happy I would be sleeping on a thick bed of pine needles sheltered by trees tonight.
First I had to get through some small hills that reminded me of a golf course on dunes. Then some flat farmland and finally the welcoming embrace of pine forest. While the ground wasn’t fully dry it was barely wet. I set up near the edge looking out at what I had just travelled over and poitioned for the morning sun. I was surprised at how far I had come when I worked it out and had a good appetite for dinner not surprisingly.
3 February 2015
Day 98. Ahariri River to Top Timaru Hut.
The wind was a southerly and was really cold. I had to wear my rain jacket to block the wind. The first 1.5 km was in the open and looked easy walking from a distance but was actually really rough and hard to walk on.
At the end of this flat bit was a sharp drop to the river. I took some time here looking at the river to spot the best crossing point. I was a little concerned with the cloudy colour of the river which usually indicates that it ia being affected by the rain. Talking to all of the northbounders they all said the crossing was wet undie deep and on people as vertically challenged as me hip deep, and that is before the rain.
I made my way down and was resigned to walking an extra 10 km to get to the nearest bridge and back. The river looked to be in the early stage of being rain effected. The water was cloudy, flowing fast and high and the crossing point I spotted from higher was a no go. I decided to walk down the river a bit to scout out other options and came up with a plan that would have me crossing to a gravel island then walk up the island to the top where I could cross the second bit. Decision made I prepared by moving everything from my side and hip Pockets to the main waterproof compartment of my pack. I put my Personal Locator Beacon around my neck and as it was so cold I decided to take my clothes off and put them in my pack as well so they stayed dry. I was just hoping that a farmer or other trampers didn’t come along as I had no warning signs deployed about the brilliant whiteness of my body which could cause eye damage without sunglasses for protection. Not to mention one look at my protuding ribs would have them forcing food into me.
So clad in my shoes and a PLB I started the crossing. The current was fast but managable without too much effort. My walking poles were not vibrating in the flow which is good. If they vibrate my personal safety standard is no more than knee deep. The water crept I to mid shin, then my knee, above my knee and then maxed out mid thigh before dropping as I reached the island. Part one done but it was the second part I was more concerned about as I couldn’t get a accurate assessment of the depth. I decided to try it but back off if it went past mid thigh. I felt strange walking up the island starkers, while concentrating on the river I hadn’t thought about it.
Part two of the crossing the flow was less than the first crossing. I angled slightly upstrean for the first few meters then the better downstream angle and the water was just above my knees. It turned out that this was the easier crossing.
So despite the river being up slightly with the rain I managed a dry undie crossing, or would have if I was wearing any. This goes to show that a little knowledge of river dynamics and taking time picking crossing points pays good dividends.
I rushed to get my clothes back on and rinsed the river gravel out of me shoes before moving off briskly to warm up. The track climbed steeply out of the gully then followed along the top of the escarpment for 500 metres before turning inland and following a fence line to the road. I was relieved to have the river crossing behind me and a little buzzed to have done it and not needed to walk to the Bridge. I was interested to know what Hannah and Marianne would do as I think they are shorter than me and I don’t know their river experience level.
From the road it was over farmland on farm tracks and single track along the valley, mainly on the plateau above the river. I took photos at the 2500 mark and rather than be happy with the milestone it made me sad that I only have 500 km to go as I am not ready for this adventure to end.
A couple of km later I joined a farm track which undulated along the Avon Burn for 5 km. Not long after joining this I noticed my right shoe was gaping open at the instep. I had noticed it starting to go and had decided to do some repairs at the hut tonight but the river crossing must have been too much. Ifound a nice place to sit and started sewing. Luckily one of the things I had asked my parents to bring was heavy duty thread for leather just for this contingency. It took me nearly 30 minutes as it was hard to pull the needle through the thicker parts of the shoe without pliers. I also managed to jab the point of the needle 5 mm under my thumb nail somehow. I can attest to the effectiveness of this as a common method of torture.
With repaired shoes I continued on lethargically. I had already made the decision that I was only going as far as Top Timaru Hut and was a little sad about the 500km to go and seemed to be going really slowly. I saw a hill ahead so stopped for a leisurely lunch hoping a full stomach would pick me up.
As I sat there I was watching the Merino Sheep walking. They have a funny walk and it looks like they have arthritis in their rear legs. I first thought it was just a lame sheep but then noticed all of them wete like that. Maybe it is an adaptation for living on steep hills.
Not long after I arrived at the private hut, though open for anyone to use it. It was a musterer hut with cloth mattresses and a great looking fireplace. I signed into the hut visitor notebook and continued. Now the climbing really started. It was on vehicle tracks and I was amazed that a bulldozer had managed to make the track. It would be a challenge to drive the track and I wondered what the reason was for the track. It was a grunt getting up but as I neared the saddle I got the normal excitement I get everytime I near a summit, saddle or ridgeline even after all this time on the trail. It is the excitement of wondering what is on the other side and I am seldom disappointed given the
At this saddle the view was down a valley and the track winding down the scree to get to the valley. The track was still wide but due to slips would not be usable to any vehicle except a quad bike.
There was a trail to follow which is a luxury at the moment. The side streams were easy to cross. One of the side streams was milky white which I gathered was due to some minerals up higher. Still not knowing the cause of the colour I decided to fill up my camping water at the next side stream. 30 minutes later I could see the hut toilet and not until I was right above it the hut. I was surprised that it was a modern hut as it used to be a musterers hut that was refurbished by DOC. I am not sure what of the hut is original as the inside and outside looks new. I relaxed happy to have the hut to myself.
1 hour later Anna McNuff arrived. I had been hoping to meet here as she is running the trail unsupported. I had seen a photo and her pack looked a similar size to mine. It turns out her pack is heavier than mine so my respect for her managing to run increased. She is not running to set records, just because she wanted to see if she could and to raise money for Outdoor Pursuits Centres. She is also tslking at schools to encourage kids to get outdoors. I can imagine she is a big hit with the kids with her bubbly personality. Unfortunately she told me there were another 5 Northbounders on their way so the hut would be full tonight.
Next to arrive were Fiona and Anthony who are two kiwis walking for the endangered Whio (blue duck). Also for something different Anthony walks in a Kilt. As for what is under the kilt I didn’t ask. Next was Ron from Canada who is walking with his guitar and helping to improve the trail by doing some trail maintenance sometimes. Finally quite late Andrew and Peter from USA turned up. It was a lively night which finished with Ron playing his guitar and us singing to old songs. I was hoping this would force ‘Young Guns’ out of my head.
4 February 2015
Day 99. Top Timaru Hut to Pakituhi Hut.
Unfortunately by the time I was away at 0800. the weather had packed in and it was cold and raining. Luckily there was only a km in the open before I dropped into the bush where it was more sheltered. It was still cold and wet though and my hands went numb. There was just enough feeling left in them to grip my poles. At one stage I got something in my shoe but when I tried to touch the laces I realised that was not going to happen. To compound the discomfort ‘Young Guns’ was back.
The track was following the river down and spent a lot of time climbing, sidling and dropping over and over. Some of the sidles were scary enough for the pucker factor to engage. Imagine you are 50 meters above a rocky river looking down at a slope that is nearly vertical following a track that is barely wider than your foot and only slightly less steep than the slope on a slippery clay surface in the rain. Now walk across the slope and smile.
There were some crossings of the river which was now discoloured from the rain runoff but still not flowing too fast yet.
I struggled to open my muslea bars with my numb hands but knew I needed to eat regularly to keep warm. At least I was still dry as my rain jacket was doing it’s job.
I didn’t stop except to quickly stuff food in because I knew I would get too cold. I had just decided that I would stop at the next hut for a hot cooked lunch and possibly stay there and hope for better weather tomorrow when the rain stopped at 1100. One hour later I was seeing blue sky. Crazy.
At the junction the track started climbing and kept climbing steeply over 400 meters vertically. It was slippery going up. That was a good way to warm up again. I broke out of the bushline and then sidled for a bit before entering a patch of bush and sidling to Stodys Hut which is an old musterers hut in original condition except for modern mattresses. I was surprised it only took 5 hours 10 minutes to get here as I was expecting it to be 6 hours given how slowly I was moving with it being so slippery. I had a big lunch there before continuing.
Despite the blue sky it was still cold made worse by a freezing and really strong wind. I kept my jacket on with the hood up and it did well in blocking the wind. The wind was coming fron my right side and very slightly behind. I was able to angle my pack to pick up the wind and be driven forward so I was flying along though when the wind occasionally weakened I nearly fell over as I was having to brace so strongly. The track was on farm tracks firstly climbing up to the ridge, then along the ridge and then steeply up Breast Hill where the views over Lake Hawea and the mountains were amazing. I took some photos and was freezing by the time I finished. It took a while setting up my monopod as my hands were numb again.
I took off down the fenceline down the hill beside the bluffs at speed to try to warm up and quickly reached the hut. It took 3 hours which includes at least 20 minutes photo shoot.
Jory who I last saw in Arthurs Pass was in the hut. I had a big dinner and read. It was still freezing outside but the hut was nice and warm.
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